Formulation of a Herbal Shampoo using Total Saponins of Acanthophyllum squarrosum

Shampoos are products which remove surface grease and dirt from the hair shaft and scalp. The cleansing or detergent action of a shampoo is a primary function. However, the foaming characteristic of a shampoo has an important role in its acceptability. Often alkanolamides are used for the formation of a stable foam; but because of producing nitrosamines, they are potentially carcinogenic compounds. Hence, the main goal of this study was the elimination of these materials from shampoo formulations. Acanthophyllum squarrosum is one of the 23 species of the genus Acanthophyllum endemic in Iran. Due to the presence of saponin in its root, chubak, has been used traditionally as a detergent.

In this study, total saponins of Acanthophyllum squarrosum roots were extracted, using several solvents. A clear liquid shampoo base was formulated using Texapon as surfactant, sodium chloride as thickener, glycerin as viscosity modifier, methyl paraben as preservative and EDTA as sequestring agent. Then, a fixed amount of Texapon was substituted by 1, 2.5 and 5 percent of total herbal saponins. Foaming ability of the shampoos prepared was evaluated by the Ross-Miles method and the cleansing power by Thompson test.

The best result was found with the formula containing 20% Texapon and 5% total herbal saponins. Therefore, this formulation was selected as the best formula and evaluated for other characteristics. In addition to possessing the properties of a liquid shampoo, the unique characteristics of the formula containing 5% total herbal saponins was that it produced a stable foam without the use of foam stabilizers. Evaluation of the cleansing power by Thompson test showed that the final formula is a shampoo for normal hair, with very good cleansing ability. Rheological studies showed that the final formula had a pseudoplastic behavior. Organoleptic and physicochemical characteristics of the final formula were all found to be acceptable.